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How to find a hidden gem of a Classic Car

When purchasing a classic or antique car or truck, locating and decoding the vehicle VIN number is a necessary step. While many people refer to a car’s identification number as VIN numbers, the VIN means Vehicle Identification Number.

Verifying the VIN or the old serial number of an antique car or truck will also help you determine the vehicles value. Perhaps a vehicle is worth more if it has original parts. Less modification in some cases may mean the vehicle is worth more.

The Internet is a great place to start your research. A few simple keyword searches can provide a great deal of helpful information. The Internet can also help you narrow down the particular year, make and model that you want to investigate more closely.

When searching a cars history, make sure to clarify with the seller what part numbers are matching and what parts aren’t. Then verify for yourself or with your mechanic by including part numbers in your inspection. Make sure to complete you have verified all information before making an offer or negotiating the final price tag of a classic car. Sometimes you may find that you have an opportunity to purchase a car more valuable than you thought.

What’s the difference between R12 and 134a Air Conditioning Systems

R12 and 134a are refrigerants used in car air conditioning systems. R12 was used in most cars and trucks until 1995 when it was replaced with 134a. The main difference between the two is that R12 is the amount of time they remain in earth’s atmosphere, with the newer 134a significantly less than the old R12.

Why was the manufacturing of R12 banned? R12 contains CFCs like hairspray once did, that is potentially damaging to the ozone layer. It was banned because of this potential environmental risk and replaced by 134a because 134a, using synthetic oil over mineral oil, does not have as much of a negative environmental impact that R12 does. 

WHY should I UPGRADE?

The original OE compressors have a strong tendency to leak at the shaft seal if the air-conditioning is not used on a regular basis sometimes in as little as two weeks of non-use. This will not be a problem with the Sanden-style rotary compressor.

Converting to 134a Depending upon the type of kit you purchase, you get all or most everything needed to convert to 134a except the refrigerant itself

Modern condenser  Our highly efficient direct replacement parallel flow, piccolo-tube or serpentine condenser significantly improves system performance with better heat exchange.  Better heat-exchange means colder a/c.

Modernize the appearance of your engine compartment  The smaller & cleaner look of the Sanden-style compressor combined with Original Air’s parallel flow condenser and pre-formed tubes are designed specifically to fit your stock application. Not only does it fit properly, but it looks good too.

Save Horsepower  Rotary compressors draw significantly less horsepower of stock OE compressor; approximately 2-4 horsepower compared with 15-20 horsepower.

Increase Fuel Economy  Less horsepower draw means better gas-mileage.

Save Weight  The compressor is less than half the weight of stock OE compressor.

Running engine at high RPM The compressor can handle 6,000 continuous RPM.

Modern Muscle how to add Horsepower

Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger systems deliver excellent horsepower and torque in a complete kit. Featuring a unique design with minimal components. It makes it possible to fit an E-Force Supercharger under the stock hood. The core of each system is the Eaton Gen VI 2300 or 1320 TVS® Supercharger rotating assembly with a four lobe design with 160° of twist for maximum flow, minimum temperature rise and quiet operation for excellent drivability. We also designed our superchargers with an integrated bypass valve to help eliminate parasitic loss under light throttle, improving mileage potential. Our unique and efficient inlet configuration results in a shorter, less restrictive intake path for improved air flow, without the need for a jack-shaft. Keeping the air cool is a high capacity air to water intercooler and low temp heat exchanger. Edelbrock supercharger systems are available in three performance levels for most applications.http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/superchargers/chevy-camaro.shtml

STAGE 1 – STREET SYSTEMS
These systems are emissions legal and provide the best combination for your daily driver. They will also include a tune for both 91 and 93 octane, on select applications. The supplied tune is intended for completely STOCK vehicles with the exception of a catback exhaust.

STAGE 2 – TRACK SYSTEMS
These systems include the components from the Stage 1 system with the addition of a cold air intake (if required), smaller pulley, fuel injectors (if required), fuel pump (if required) and a custom tune, giving you great performance for the track. These systems are for competition racing only (except for our Corvette systems, which are emissions legal) and are available as a complete kit or as an upgrade. The supplied tune is intended for completely STOCK vehicles with the exception of a catback exhaust.

STAGE 3 – PROFESSIONAL TUNER SYSTEMS
Our Professional Tuner systems include all of the essential components that a racer would need to build a custom supercharged racing setup. They offer flexibility in pulley selection, cold air intake and more. These systems are for competition racing use only.

Finally… the Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger system is not just a performance upgrade, it also has great looks! The supercharger assembly and aluminum coil covers (on most applications) are powder coated for durability and provide a unique appearance that will give any engine compartment a custom look.

Features Include:
Everything fits right out of the box, no welding, cutting or grinding
Eaton® TVS Rotor assembly
Self contained oil system (no drilling or plumbing required)
Electronic PCM programming module, with Stage 1 & Stage 2 application specific tuning

High Flow Mass Air Flow Sensor (as needed)
Little to no decrease in fuel economy
Limited powertrain warranty
Unique design allows maximum low end torque and instant throttle response
50-state emissions street legal

Which type of Quarter Panel repair do you need?

With so many reproduction options on the market, knowing exactly what you need to repair or replace your sheet metal will save time and money! Learn the difference between fulls, skins and patch panels. Get it right the first time.

Full Quarter Panel is made just like the panels that are welded to your car when it was first produced. These panels reach all the way to each edge of the rear quarter panel area, including the trunk and door edges, and reach to the roof line. just like the factory-original panels did for your particular model. For Dodges and Plymouth, the door jamb was never part of the original quarter panels.

Quarter Skins are nearly as large as “Full Quarter Panels”, but do not include any trunk lips or said panel. They cover only the side of the quarter panel, and reach upward to approximately the location where the bottom of original vinyl roofs would normally be. Keep in mind that while “Quarter Skins” initially cost less than “Full Quarter panels”, it often takes more labor to install them. So if keeping your costs down is the only reason that you might select “Quarter Skins” over “Full Quarter Panels” you should be aware that the final net cost might not represent much of a savings. Also, “Quarter Skins” do require a lip to weld to – all the way around the edge. This makes them a poor choice for badly rusted out cars or collision damage, since there is often no bottom edge remaining to weld to. In this case, you are better off choosing “Full Quarter Panels” and adding outer wheel houses to complete replace the rust.

Quarter Patches are just what they sound like. Small pieces of quarter panels for repairing small holes in isolated areas. These are good choices for nearly perfect cars with tiny holes in specific spots or for low-budget “driver” cars. Yet it can be very difficult to hide the seam areas where the patches are welded to the original panels.

Buy a new classic car body shell to restore?

Dynacorn is known for its high quality body parts and sheet metal but they also offer complete body shells. These replacement body shells are perfect for anyone that wants to restore a car from the ground up. Each car shell is GM / Ford licensed to ensure the highest quality possible. You now don’t have to search for a restoration project when you can start one today!
These Replacement Body Shells are a licensed restoration part completely assembled from the firewall to the tail lamp panel and from the frame rails to the windshield frame. Each body shells includes most of the structural parts, brackets and braces welded in place, plus doors and deck lid already assembled. Very little body work or adjustments are required and the hard part will be deciding on interior colors and keeping track of which bolt goes where.
The body shells are not completely ready to be finished, they are as close as you can get not being assembled or built on an assembly line, there will still be some fitting and working to make everything line up. Just the same; as if you were working with a 40 year old body shell.
The steel used in the body shell program is 1006 universal automotive grade steel coated with special Galvanization to protect against rust.. In most cases the gauge will be thicker than that of the original.

Thickness of steel increased:

Trunk floor 0.8 to 1.0 m/m
Rocker panel 1.6 to 2.0 m/m
Rocker Panel Inner Brace 3.0 m/m
Rear frame rails 1.6 to 2.3 m/m
Firewall & torque bar 1.0 to 1.2 m/m

Each body is inspected and worked on by hand Increased amounts of CO2 have been used during welding that tightens the tolerances and helps to reduce road noise. All replacement parts have been increased in thickness to accommodate a stiffer better replacement body shell. Increased thickness, better tolerances, use of more CO2 in welding gives you a product that is unequaled in the restoration parts industry. The steel possesses fewer additives allowing it to be a bit more flexible and workable than the original.

Who is the best for restoration sheet metal parts?

Who is the best for restoration sheet metal parts for your classic and muscle car? Everyone has had their own issues at some point in time with sheet metal body reproduction parts, but we are here to help you with choosing a quality part. At Restoration Performance or Classic Body Part From our experience and the feedback from our customers we have provided you with a simple guideline to help in your decision: Good, Better or Best. Look for the ratings on each restoration part. go to www.restorationperformance.com

www.classicbodyparts.com

Where to buy restoration parts

Classic Body Parts or Restoration Performance is one of the largest dealers for Goodmark Industries and Dynacorn International and Sherman classic restoration parts in the country! We strive to meet all your classic car vehicles needs. Dont be fooled by other companies that offer monthly sells offering discounts at 15 – 25% off RETAIL price! We have the lowest prices every month all year long! In most cases we will not be under sold!! Just try us and you will see. www.classicbodyparts.com or www.restorationperformance.com

Dynacorn Mustang Shock Tower Replacement

We appreciate classic Mustangs just as much as the next person, but they did come with their fair share of annoying and sometimes dangerous design flaws, such as cowl vents that leak, seatbacks that easily brake, dangerous braking system defects, defroster air doors that fall apart over time, parking brake mechanisms that too be honest never worked well, door latches that froze, and shock towers that cracked. Cracked shock towers are not only hard on front-end alignment, but also dangerous, a crack can turn into a highly dangerous shock tower problem and complete steering system failure.

To understand why Mustang shock towers crack, you have to know a little about Mustang suspension systems themselves and how they were designed. The classic 1965-73 Mustangs have a coilover upper control arm front suspension system. By using this design Ford was able to save some money which brought the overall cost of the car down but, it was not a good design in terms of strength, reliability, and overall handling. The Mustang also had another serious design flaw, the upper control arm binding and having to handle unwanted slack. If the upper control arms bind, the shock towers flex with suspension articulation, this causes metal fatigue and can lead to cracking.

The 1967-70 Mustangs have the same basic shock tower, they are different in how they connect with the rest of the body. This means a different center apron and different part numbers. Dynacorn has created a shock tower different from original equipment; is its heavier-than-original gauge steel construction, which makes it even stronger than the factory factory specs.

The shock tower cracking seems to me mainly focused on the  1967-70s models so anyone with this car or in the process of doing a Mustang restoration might want to inspect your shock towers very carefully.

Dakota Digital VHX Gauges / Instrument Clusters

Dakota Digital VHX gauges feature fully lit needles, backlit faces, and highly visible LCD message center to set them apart from yesterday’s traditional approach to instrumentation. The VHX have a few of the features which you don’t normally see, such as the micro-controlled precision stepper motors, solid state sensors for unparalleled accuracy, and user-customizable display feedback. All these are supported by an unrivaled limited lifetime warranty which has become the standard for Dakota Digital instrumentation systems . The VHX Series has what it takes to bring your classic car into the modern age !

Dakota Digital offers VHX gauges for many different makes and models such as:

Mustang 2″ Wider Inner Wheelhouse/Wheel Tub

Anyone looking to put serious power down on their Mustang might want to take a look at the new 2″ wider wheelhouse / wheel tubs from Goodmark.

These wheelhouses will fit a 1964-70 Ford Mustang or Cougar and add a extra 2 inches in order to fit a larger tire such as a 295/35/18. These wheel tubs need to be welded in and we highly recommend having a experience body shop handle the install.

For more information on how to install there Mustang wheel tubs visit: http://www.mustangandfords.com/