June 11th, 2015
Mustangs, Camaros, Firebirds, Challenger, and Pickups
Dynacorn has been supplying replacement sheetmetal for classic vehicles for a long time. That led to the production of complete replacement classic bodies. Their extensive offerings include: GM models ’67, ’68 & ‘69 Camaro coupe and convertible, ’69 Firebird coupe and convertible, ’70 Chevelle coupe and convertible, ’47-’50 & ’52-’54 Chevy pickup cab and ’55- ’57 Chevy pickup cab. Ford models ’65-’66 Ford Mustang convertible, ’67-’68-’69 & ’70 Ford Mustang fastback & ’66-’76 Ford Bronco. New Mopar offering a 1970 Challenger coupe and soon the 1970 to 1973 Camaro. For more info go to www.dynacornbodies.com
Steel reproduction bodies have made possible the continuation and growth of the hot rod and classic car marketplace. They replace hard-to-find original sheetmetal with rust-free new steel that, because of modern technology, have better fit and finish than the original. These new bodies are created as exact duplicates of the originals or with modern updates that make them more functional while retaining the appearance of the real thing.
Some reproduction bodies are produced exclusively by one source with no competitors offering to compete with. Others are available from multiple sources with different options. The investment needed to produce these very complicated reproductions limits the number of players so a few companies actually produce them for distribution by authorized dealers or contract customers. The list of available models and body styles continues to grow, so if you don’t find the model that you are hoping to build, a little patience may payoff, because new steel reproduction bodies are in the works and will be available soon.
April 22nd, 2015
With so many reproduction options on the market, knowing exactly what you need to repair or replace your sheet metal will save time and money! Learn the difference between fulls, skins and patch panels. Get it right the first time.
Full Quarter Panel is made just like the panels that are welded to your car when it was first produced. These panels reach all the way to each edge of the rear quarter panel area, including the trunk and door edges, and reach to the roof line. just like the factory-original panels did for your particular model. For Dodges and Plymouth, the door jamb was never part of the original quarter panels.
Quarter Skins are nearly as large as “Full Quarter Panels”, but do not include any trunk lips or said panel. They cover only the side of the quarter panel, and reach upward to approximately the location where the bottom of original vinyl roofs would normally be. Keep in mind that while “Quarter Skins” initially cost less than “Full Quarter panels”, it often takes more labor to install them. So if keeping your costs down is the only reason that you might select “Quarter Skins” over “Full Quarter Panels” you should be aware that the final net cost might not represent much of a savings. Also, “Quarter Skins” do require a lip to weld to – all the way around the edge. This makes them a poor choice for badly rusted out cars or collision damage, since there is often no bottom edge remaining to weld to. In this case, you are better off choosing “Full Quarter Panels” and adding outer wheel houses to complete replace the rust.
Quarter Patches are just what they sound like. Small pieces of quarter panels for repairing small holes in isolated areas. These are good choices for nearly perfect cars with tiny holes in specific spots or for low-budget “driver” cars. Yet it can be very difficult to hide the seam areas where the patches are welded to the original panels.
April 22nd, 2015
Welcome to DynacornBodies.com your source your replacement classic body shells restoring classic cars such as Camaro, Mustang, Firebird, Chevelle and even a Chevy Truck!
Dynacorn is known for its high quality body parts and sheet metal but they also offer complete body shells. These replacement body shells are perfect for anyone that wants to restore a car from the ground up. Each car shell is GM / Ford licensed to ensure the highest quality possible. You now don’t have to search for a restoration project when you can start one today!
These Replacement Body Shells are a licensed restoration part completely assembled from the firewall to the tail lamp panel and from the frame rails to the windshield frame. Each body shells includes most of the structural parts, brackets and braces welded in place, plus doors and deck lid already assembled. Very little body work or adjustments are required and the hard part will be deciding on interior colors and keeping track of which bolt goes where.
The body shells are not completely ready to be finished, they are as close as you can get not being assembled or built on an assembly line, there will still be some fitting and working to make everything line up. Just the same; as if you were working with a 40 year old body shell.
The steel used in the body shell program is 1006 universal automotive grade steel coated with special Galvanization to protect against rust.. In most cases the gauge will be thicker than that of the original.
Thickness of steel increased:
Trunk floor 0.8 to 1.0 m/m
Rocker panel 1.6 to 2.0 m/m
Rocker Panel Inner Brace 3.0 m/m
Rear frame rails 1.6 to 2.3 m/m
Firewall & torque bar 1.0 to 1.2 m/m
Each body is inspected and worked on by hand Increased amounts of CO2 have been used during welding that tightens the tolerances and helps to reduce road noise. All replacement parts have been increased in thickness to accommodate a stiffer better replacement body shell. Increased thickness, better tolerances, use of more CO2 in welding gives you a product that is unequaled in the restoration parts industry. The steel possesses fewer additives allowing it to be a bit more flexible and workable than the original.
March 7th, 2014
Who is the best for restoration sheet metal parts for your classic and muscle car? Everyone has had their own issues at some point in time with sheet metal body reproduction parts, but we are here to help you with choosing a quality part. At Restoration Performance Center From our experience and the feedback from our customers we have provided you with a simple guideline to help in your decision: Good, Better or Best. Look for the ratings on each restoration part. go to www.restorationperformance.com
June 12th, 2013
Classic Discount Parts is one of the largest dealers for Goodmark Industries and Dynacorn International and MBM classic restoration parts in the country! We strive to meet all your classic car vehicles needs. Dont be fooled by other companies that offer monthly sells offering discounts at 15 – 25% off RETAIL price! We have the lowest prices every month all year long! In most cases we will not be under sold!! Just try us and you will see. www.classicdiscountparts.com
December 26th, 2011
We appreciate classic Mustangs just as much as the next person, but they did come with their fair share of annoying and sometimes dangerous design flaws, such as cowl vents that leak, seatbacks that easily brake, dangerous braking system defects, defroster air doors that fall apart over time, parking brake mechanisms that too be honest never worked well, door latches that froze, and shock towers that cracked. Cracked shock towers are not only hard on front-end alignment, but also dangerous, a crack can turn into a highly dangerous shock tower problem and complete steering system failure.
To understand why Mustang shock towers crack, you have to know a little about Mustang suspension systems themselves and how they were designed. The classic 1965-73 Mustangs have a coilover upper control arm front suspension system. By using this design Ford was able to save some money which brought the overall cost of the car down but, it was not a good design in terms of strength, reliability, and overall handling. The Mustang also had another serious design flaw, the upper control arm binding and having to handle unwanted slack. If the upper control arms bind, the shock towers flex with suspension articulation, this causes metal fatigue and can lead to cracking.
The 1967-70 Mustangs have the same basic shock tower, they are different in how they connect with the rest of the body. This means a different center apron and different part numbers. Dynacorn has created a shock tower different from original equipment; is its heavier-than-original gauge steel construction, which makes it even stronger than the factory factory specs.
The shock tower cracking seems to me mainly focused on the 1967-70s models so anyone with this car or in the process of doing a Mustang restoration might want to inspect your shock towers very carefully.
December 16th, 2011
Dakota Digital VHX gauges feature fully lit needles, backlit faces, and highly visible LCD message center to set them apart from yesterday’s traditional approach to instrumentation. The VHX have a few of the features which you don’t normally see, such as the micro-controlled precision stepper motors, solid state sensors for unparalleled accuracy, and user-customizable display feedback. All these are supported by an unrivaled limited lifetime warranty which has become the standard for Dakota Digital instrumentation systems . The VHX Series has what it takes to bring your classic car into the modern age !
Dakota Digital offers VHX gauges for many different makes and models such as:
1967-68 Chevy Camaro/Firebird VHX Gauges – VHX-67C-CAM-S-R
1969 Chevy Camaro – VHX-69C-CAM-S-B
Triple Round Universal VHX – VHX-1013-C-R
December 15th, 2011
Anyone looking to put serious power down on their Mustang might want to take a look at the new 2″ wider wheelhouse / wheel tubs from Goodmark.
These wheelhouses will fit a 1964-70 Ford Mustang or Cougar and add a extra 2 inches in order to fit a larger tire such as a 295/35/18. These wheel tubs need to be welded in and we highly recommend having a experience body shop handle the install.
Here are the link to check them out for yourself:
You can also browse all the Mustang restoration parts for everything you need to finish your project!
For more information on how to install there Mustang wheel tubs visit: http://www.mustangandfords.com/
December 13th, 2011
The first step in car restoration is to make a list of what needs to be done and to plan out the project, this will ensure that everything is done in the proper order and nothing gets overlooked. You don’t want to forget something crucial and risk damaging a new paint job, or find out that your car looks great but won’t run.
Here are some things to include on your list:
Seats: More then likely your seats will need to be replaced due to the fact that the car is typically over 30 years old and is pretty much a essential.
Headliner: Make sure the headliner is not sagging or torn. You can order headliners for your classic car and install them yourself.
Dash: Cracking is typical for a old dash so it is likely that it will need to be replaced. You can sometimes replace the dash pad and that will be enough.
Rubbers: Check all of the rubber on the car, including the trunk rubber, the window rubbers and the rubber for the hood and trunk. Old weatherstrips are a must for replacing to prevent any leaks.
Dents and scratches: Make sure all dents and scratches are filled in or pounded out. Sometimes it is necessary for replacement body panels to be used if the panels are dented or rusted badly.
Engine compartment: Clean the engine bay with a degreaser before adding any chrome or stainless components.
Engine: Make sure everything is running and working. It is a good idea to do regular maintenance on the engine (oil change, belts, hoses, spark plugs, etc.) at this point.
This is only a partial list, you should inspect your car, write down anything you want to change and everything that needs to be repaired or cleaned up. After you create the list, call local speed shops and auto parts stores or visit websites that offer car restoration parts to price out the items you need.
December 31st, 2010
How to choose the correct wheel for your car or truck
Shopping for new custom wheels for your car or truck is not an easy task. First you have to decide from thousands of different sizes and styles and that can be down right mind boggling to say the least. So let’s simplify things about and answer a few questions okay.
The first question to ask yourself is what is my budget? This will determine many things such as do I need to stick with the stock size since going bigger means I need new tires as well. Can I afford chrome or do I need to stick with painted or polished aluminum or even steel? Chrome wheels are generally much more in case anyone is wondering.
Once you have figured out your budget it is time to move on to the finish. What kind of finish do I want. If your budget is on the lesser side this will rule out chrome, however it does not rule out polished aluminum as an alternative. Just remember polished aluminum is much more maintenance however with the proper polishes and tools and a high speed drill this can be fairly easy to accomplish when needed. If you have chosen a painted or powder coated rim then remember you want to protect them. Painted wheels should be waxed on occasion to help give them a barrier from brake dust etc.. Another thing you will want to do with painted wheels is keep them clean. If brake dust sets on them they will develop the nasty rust spots that will not come out. Now that you have learned a little bit about the finishes it is time to move onto the next step. By now you should know your budget and hopefully what size you need. You should also have an idea on what finish you want and what color.
So you have narrowed your selection down to a certain size, finish and color. Now you must find the right style that has the correct offset for your vehicle. This is best determined by your rim dealer but here is a brief explanation off offset. A front wheel drive car has a positive offset meaning that the face of the wheel is toward the outside edge. An older rear wheel drive car or truck has a negative offset meaning the face of the wheel is in deeper many times a zero offset meaning the mounting surface is exactly halfway. A modern SUV or truck usually has a mid offset which is more on the positive side such as plus 30 offset compared to a car which may have a plus 38 offset. The numbers are in millimeters by the way.