Classic Discount Parts is one of the largest dealers for Goodmark Industries and Dynacorn International and MBM classic restoration parts in the country! We strive to meet all your classic car vehicles needs. Dont be fooled by other companies that offer monthly sells offering discounts at 15 – 25% off RETAIL price! We have the lowest prices every month all year long! In most cases we will not be under sold!! Just try us and you will see. www.classicdiscountparts.com
We appreciate classic Mustangs just as much as the next person, but they did come with their fair share of annoying and sometimes dangerous design flaws, such as cowl vents that leak, seatbacks that easily brake, dangerous braking system defects, defroster air doors that fall apart over time, parking brake mechanisms that too be honest never worked well, door latches that froze, and shock towers that cracked. Cracked shock towers are not only hard on front-end alignment, but also dangerous, a crack can turn into a highly dangerous shock tower problem and complete steering system failure.
To understand why Mustang shock towers crack, you have to know a little about Mustang suspension systems themselves and how they were designed. The classic 1965-73 Mustangs have a coilover upper control arm front suspension system. By using this design Ford was able to save some money which brought the overall cost of the car down but, it was not a good design in terms of strength, reliability, and overall handling. The Mustang also had another serious design flaw, the upper control arm binding and having to handle unwanted slack. If the upper control arms bind, the shock towers flex with suspension articulation, this causes metal fatigue and can lead to cracking.
The 1967-70 Mustangs have the same basic shock tower, they are different in how they connect with the rest of the body. This means a different center apron and different part numbers. Dynacorn has created a shock tower different from original equipment; is its heavier-than-original gauge steel construction, which makes it even stronger than the factory factory specs.
The shock tower cracking seems to me mainly focused on the 1967-70s models so anyone with this car or in the process of doing a Mustang restoration might want to inspect your shock towers very carefully.
|Dynacorn Shock Tower Assemblies|
|Description||Dynacorn Part Number|
|1965-66 Left Mustang Shock Tower||3630D|
|1965-66 Right Mustang Shock Tower||3630C|
|1967-68 Left Mustang Shock Tower||3631U|
|1967-68 Right Mustang Shock Tower||3631T|
|1969-70 Left Mustang Shock Tower||3631X|
|1969-70 Right Mustang Shock Tower||3631W|
Dakota Digital VHX gauges feature fully lit needles, backlit faces, and highly visible LCD message center to set them apart from yesterday’s traditional approach to instrumentation. The VHX have a few of the features which you don’t normally see, such as the micro-controlled precision stepper motors, solid state sensors for unparalleled accuracy, and user-customizable display feedback. All these are supported by an unrivaled limited lifetime warranty which has become the standard for Dakota Digital instrumentation systems . The VHX Series has what it takes to bring your classic car into the modern age !
Dakota Digital offers VHX gauges for many different makes and models such as:
Anyone looking to put serious power down on their Mustang might want to take a look at the new 2″ wider wheelhouse / wheel tubs from Goodmark.
These wheelhouses will fit a 1964-70 Ford Mustang or Cougar and add a extra 2 inches in order to fit a larger tire such as a 295/35/18. These wheel tubs need to be welded in and we highly recommend having a experience body shop handle the install.
Here are the link to check them out for yourself:
- 64-70 Mustang/Cougar 2″ Wider Inner Wheelhouse, Right Hand
- 64-70 Mustang/Cougar 2″ Wider Inner Wheelhouse, Left Hand
You can also browse all the Mustang restoration parts for everything you need to finish your project!
For more information on how to install there Mustang wheel tubs visit: http://www.mustangandfords.com/
The first step in car restoration is to make a list of what needs to be done and to plan out the project, this will ensure that everything is done in the proper order and nothing gets overlooked. You don’t want to forget something crucial and risk damaging a new paint job, or find out that your car looks great but won’t run.
Here are some things to include on your list:
Seats: More then likely your seats will need to be replaced due to the fact that the car is typically over 30 years old and is pretty much a essential.
Headliner: Make sure the headliner is not sagging or torn. You can order headliners for your classic car and install them yourself.
Dash: Cracking is typical for a old dash so it is likely that it will need to be replaced. You can sometimes replace the dash pad and that will be enough.
Rubbers: Check all of the rubber on the car, including the trunk rubber, the window rubbers and the rubber for the hood and trunk. Old weatherstrips are a must for replacing to prevent any leaks.
Dents and scratches: Make sure all dents and scratches are filled in or pounded out. Sometimes it is necessary for replacement body panels to be used if the panels are dented or rusted badly.
Engine compartment: Clean the engine bay with a degreaser before adding any chrome or stainless components.
Engine: Make sure everything is running and working. It is a good idea to do regular maintenance on the engine (oil change, belts, hoses, spark plugs, etc.) at this point.
This is only a partial list, you should inspect your car, write down anything you want to change and everything that needs to be repaired or cleaned up. After you create the list, call local speed shops and auto parts stores or visit websites that offer car restoration parts to price out the items you need.
How to choose the correct wheel for your car or truck
Shopping for new custom wheels for your car or truck is not an easy task. First you have to decide from thousands of different sizes and styles and that can be down right mind boggling to say the least. So let’s simplify things about and answer a few questions okay.
The first question to ask yourself is what is my budget? This will determine many things such as do I need to stick with the stock size since going bigger means I need new tires as well. Can I afford chrome or do I need to stick with painted or polished aluminum or even steel? Chrome wheels are generally much more in case anyone is wondering.
Once you have figured out your budget it is time to move on to the finish. What kind of finish do I want. If your budget is on the lesser side this will rule out chrome, however it does not rule out polished aluminum as an alternative. Just remember polished aluminum is much more maintenance however with the proper polishes and tools and a high speed drill this can be fairly easy to accomplish when needed. If you have chosen a painted or powder coated rim then remember you want to protect them. Painted wheels should be waxed on occasion to help give them a barrier from brake dust etc.. Another thing you will want to do with painted wheels is keep them clean. If brake dust sets on them they will develop the nasty rust spots that will not come out. Now that you have learned a little bit about the finishes it is time to move onto the next step. By now you should know your budget and hopefully what size you need. You should also have an idea on what finish you want and what color.
So you have narrowed your selection down to a certain size, finish and color. Now you must find the right style that has the correct offset for your vehicle. This is best determined by your rim dealer but here is a brief explanation off offset. A front wheel drive car has a positive offset meaning that the face of the wheel is toward the outside edge. An older rear wheel drive car or truck has a negative offset meaning the face of the wheel is in deeper many times a zero offset meaning the mounting surface is exactly halfway. A modern SUV or truck usually has a mid offset which is more on the positive side such as plus 30 offset compared to a car which may have a plus 38 offset. The numbers are in millimeters by the way.
How to Choose a Muffler
Your muffler is a crucial component of the exhaust system. The main purpose of a muffler is to quiet (or muffle) the engine sound as it exits the motor. As the sound travels down the exhaust, it enters the muffler and is routed through a series of tubes that control the sound. Not all mufflers are created equal. Some allow a car to make more power and produce a louder exhaust note, while others can be quite restrictive, reducing power and making the exhaust note extremely quiet.
Decide what you want from the muffler. If you are looking for a upgrade, than check out the mufflers from a company that specializes in high-performance exhaust systems like Flowmaster or Magnaflow. These companies make many free-flowing mufflers, often made from durable materials like stainless steel, that will allow your engine to make more power as well as produce a deeper exhaust note from the engine. If on the other hand, you want to simply replace your stock muffler or even replace a performance muffler with a quieter muffler because it’s too loud, than take a look at OEM (original equipment manufacturer) mufflers. These will also usually be cheaper than the high-end aftermarket mufflers and are available from the parts department of the dealer that sells your make and model, local auto parts stores as well as muffler shops.
Determine what size your existing exhaust is. Before purchasing any muffler, whether it’s a high performance one or a stock muffler, first find out what the diameter of your existing exhaust system is. This will ensure that you purchase the right muffler that will fit properly on your exhaust system without having to use adapters. The best way to determine your exhaust size is to measure the diameter of the exhaust pipe with a ruler or a tape measure.
Choose a muffler based on your budget. There is a wide range of prices when it comes to mufflers. The high end mufflers from Magnaflow usually run around $60 or more, but you can buy a Flowmaster steel muffler for much less, usually $35 or under. If you are simply replacing a rusted muffler with a new muffler but do not desire any performance upgrade, then stick with a more inexpensive muffler. If on the other hand you have budgeted more money for your new muffler, than get the best part that you can afford. Not only will you get better performance, but the muffler will also likely last longer than a cheaper one.
What does an X-pipe do?
X or H both are balance tubes which are meant to help the scavanging effect of your exhaust system. X-pipes are less invasive towards flow and tend to yield better Peak HP…H-pipes actually cause a bit more turbulence but to the effect of netting slightly more backpressure increasing TQ.
Honestly I think all too oftern both are arbitrarily placed where they fit best over wher they work best by most exhaust shops. On my ImpalaSS I had the H pipe welded and removed 4 times until I had the best location. The best location for it proved to be a place not very accomodating to ground clearnace but still netted almost 6 RWHP more over the original location which best “fit” under the car.
I know professional race vehicles spend hours of dyno tuning and complicated math to find the “best” location for these balance tubes.
|Poly vs. Rubber|
We all know what it’s like to suffer from sore joints. Even if you’re in good physical condition, without enough cushioning between your bones, ordinary motions can be difficult. Now, apply that same concept to the suspension on your old car or truck. The bushings found on the control arms, leaf springs and various mounts are like the cartilage between your joints. The manufacturer normally equips a vehicle with rubber bushings, which provide a soft ride. Over time, however, the rubber begins to wear from oil and other contaminants under your vehicle, and the suspension components start to bind. That’s when the automotive equivalent of arthritis sets in, and your vehicle’s performance suffers (not to mention your own level of ride and handling comfort). Worn bushings are one of the major reasons for road wander. Rubber bushings may crush down before the suspension can respond to a bumpy road, allowing for play or wobble.
For more precise handling and firmer control on your resto project vehicle, installing polyurethane bushings can make an enormous difference because they help to maintain the right alignment of caster, camber and toe, even on rough or uneven pavement. Polyurethane bushings can be used in a wide variety of suspension components and also in mounts for the body, engine and transmission. They can be used on virtually any type of vehicle, domestic or import, and despite their small size, they can have a big impact on your resto-mod project.
Another advantage of polyurethane bushings is that they’re virtually impervious to oil and other road contaminants. These units will not crush down or wear out like rubber bushings, and are designed to be free-floating, rotating 360 degrees, so the suspension can articulate fully without binding. In contrast, rubber bushings are often bonded to a metal shell and sleeve, and function with a twisting action that, when pushed to its limit, binds up instead of rotating freely like urethane units. Rubber bushings can even induce wheel hop from the spring-like action of the rubber twisting back and forth.
Tools & Tips
What does it take to install polyurethane bushings? All you need are some common automotive tools and a basic knowledge of auto repair. Polyurethane products usually install just like their rubber counterparts. Depending on the product, it can be installed in as little as a half-hour, but may take as long as four hours in some cases. And, of course, an automotive repair shop can also do the installation as well.
By the way, when a vehicle is raised or lowered beyond its stock specifications, the original rubber suspension bushings are at greater risk of failing. The OEM/stock rubber usually can’t withstand the forces of a vehicle setup at a non-stock riding height. Polyurethane bushings are better suited for the weight transfer and shift characteristics of raised vehicles. Depending on their application, polyurethane bushings can be formulated to a specific “hardness” (known as durometer). By formulating different levels of durometer strength, they can be designed for specific needs, be it a street rod, off-road truck, sport compact, or even a hopping low-rider.
In addition to tightening up the suspension, polyurethane bushings provide improved turn-in and cornering response. Also, polyurethane body mounts can help to reduce body roll, a real plus for lifted trucks. In some applications, they can be used to provide extra clearance for larger off-road tires, with or without adding a suspension lift.
So whatever type of “joints” you have on your vehicle, consider upgrading them with polyurethane bushings—they’re a sure cure for your vehicle’s aches and pains
Feedback from customers over the last 11 years, indicates mileage improvements of 30% on the low end to over 70% in a couple of well documented cases is about the range you should expect from a conversion to one of these overdrives. For example, if you now get consistently 12 miles per gallon, expect to see 16 to 20 miles per gallon after the change over. One of our favorite customers, had a 64 El Camino with a stock 283 cubic inch small block with a Rochester two barrel and a Powerglide transmission. He had kept a meticulous log of his gas mileage since the original purchase and over the years had gotten an average of 18.6 miles per gallon. With no other changes, we just installed one of our overdrive transmissions, his mileage jumped to 28.6 miles per gallon! He did continue to drive at the same 60 MPH while on the highway to achieve these figures. The engine RPM will drop over 35 % when you install one of these transmissions.
If your engine RPM drops from say 3000 RPM to approximately 2000 RPM you will typically start driving at a higher average rate of speed on the highway because it will seem so natural to do so. If you choose to cruise 10 to 15 miles per hour faster on the highway than you did before the transmission upgrade, you probably won’t see the dramatic increase in fuel economy number, but you certainly will get from Point A to Point B a lot quicker, smoother and quieter! One thing is certain, when our customers have given us feed back, they invariably state they are getting “very noticeable” improvements in Mileage.